French Odyssey

Hi everyone, we’re now back
aboard Quidditch after our mini French Odyssey and we had a fantastic time.

Arriving by speed ferry, only 1 hour from Dover to Boulogne, we drove to our overnight destination at Reims.
The following morning we set off to pick up with John & Pat and their narrowboat Hoddydod, which was moored awaiting our arrival at Paray Le Monial on the Canal du Centre. We arrived mid afternoon (Sept 13th) in beautiful sunshine and temperatures in the mid 20C.
Hoddydod has been completely repainted and refurbished since we last saw her on the UK waterways in 2005 and she looked an absolute dream in her new blue and cream livery!
On the Friday morning (Sept 14th), with Monsieur Keithy at the helm we set off for our first destination of Palinges. Arriving at our first French lock immediately after the start was an interesting experience. Communication with the VNF (Voies Navigable de France), the French equivalent of BW, was one of the interesting aspects of the holiday. As Johhny will tell you 'Your never alone with the VNF'.
All locks (Ecluse) on the French system are either manned, and by manned I mean someone will drive out to meet you and complete the lock for you, or automatic, so you never get that feeling of being entirely alone and fending for yourself on the French system. Furthermore, your not permitted to work any lock unauthorised but they don't mind you lending a hand. You'll find that the VNF know exactly where you are at any time and indeed you are asked as to what day and time your likely to depart. The latter I suspect is for your convenience as much as theirs because if you approach an automatic lock which is against you, certainly on the Canal du Centre, you have to communicate with VNF via a telephone link at each lock for them to come and reset it to your favour. When this happens they appear to materialise out of thin air in their
unmistakable white Peugeot's within minutes. Once secured and inside the automatic locks are activated by a rope pulley within the chamber and you just sit back and take in the scenery. Another thing to bare in mind is that in France most things still stop for lunch between 12noon and 1pm. I have to say though that during our visit we found the VNF to be very efficient and flexible, albeit with the odd miserable Eclussier (lock-keeper).
On our second day we moved through to the town of Montceau-les-Mines. Unlike our canal system most canal and river towns in France supply mains hook up electricity and water on floating pontoons in what is known as Port-de-Plaisance and is under the local mayor's control. Prices vary from 6euro upwards, however, many are actually free.
We spent the evening at Montceau and had dinner in an excellent French Brassiere just next to our moorings.
On the Sunday morning we continued our navigation north east arriving at Montchanin, where we moored outside of the local VNF office in the early afternoon just in time for Johhny to tune in and catch his beloved F1 Grand Prix.
Monday afternoon (Sept 17th) we moved to Saint-Leger-sur-Dheune, a lovely little town which has excellent Port-de-Plaisance and is located in an area famous for its fine wines. Amazingly I spotted a Black Redstart singing from atop someones TV aerial, quite a rarity in the UK.
In the evening we were treated to an excellent thunderstorm which seemed to depict the arrival of Autumn as the weather, although still sunny, became decidedly chilly from here on.
Tuesday was our final navigation and by far our longest day continuing on past many vineyards to our destination of Chalon-sur-Saone on the beautiful river Saone. As we arrived at the junction of the canal and river we were greeted by a huge 10 meter plus lock, certainly the deepest we've ever been in! Turning onto the Saone you have to have your wits about you and be aware of the gigantic commercial barges which suddenly appear in your rear view mirror, fortunately our transition was un-eventful!
Upon our arrival in the early evening the Port moorings were totally full so we moored for the night precariously on the river edge just off the pontoons, we secured a port mooring the following day.
On the Wednesday we drove out to John and Pat's winter mooring at Saint-Jean-de-Losne located on the River Soane and later had a farewell dinner back in Chalon, where we sampled the escargot and some fine wine. We left Pattie, Johhny and NB-Hoddydod at Chalon on the Thursday afternoon after lunch and having stocked up fully on wines and cheeses made our way to Saint Quentin for an overnight stay before departing back on the speed ferry from Boulogne on the Friday morning.
During our fantastic week on the French system we probably only passed around 3 dozen boats on the move. The scenery was stunning and the people friendly. The majority of boats we encountered where in fact holiday boats but we passed many beautiful Dutch Barge's and the inevitable Monaco style Gin Palaces. During our stay we were never far from the Italian and Swiss borders and saw many different national flags flying from craft but the majority I have to say are British who seem to have taken the French Waterways to heart! We saw no other narrowboats during our stay and despite all the superb Barge's and leisure craft Hoddydod got ALL the attention and she certainly deserved it.
John and Pattie as ever were excellent hosts and we arrive back to the UK bowled over by there summer lifestyle, thoroughly enjoying our stay. The food, wine, weather and perfect company made it a visit to remember.